We spent a whole day visiting the Jewish Quarter, which was both fascinating and hugely emotionally exhausting. But one of the most wonderful places we saw was the old Jewish cemetery. My friend and I are both big fans of cemeteries in general, and this one was so packed with lopsided graves that we both fell in love. This tiny plot of land was the only place where Jews were allowed to bury their dead for centuries, so new layers of earth were added every so often to give them more room to put the bodies; many of the gravestones were sharing space, or had been buried entirely.